5 Common Turtle Care Mistakes
Do you find turtle care difficult? Does it seem like you just can’t keep the tank clean no matter how often you try? Perhaps this makes you feel as if you have no time to spend enjoying your turtle. If you answered “yes” to these questions, you might be falling victim to one of the most common care errors.
Good news! There are cheap and easy solutions that can make turtle care the easiest thing you’ll do all day!
Mistake #1 – Overfeeding
Most turtles should be eating only once every other day, or less. To make it easy, we recommend you stick to a set schedule like Sunday, Tuesday, Thursday. This is all a turtle needs in terms of food to grow and be healthy.
Portion size should be determined by the “hollow head” method. Picture the turtle’s head as a hollow container (just the head, not the neck) and the amount of pellets or food that can fit in this container is the appropriate portion size. If you aren’t sure, go with less, not more.
There are a few more ways to improve cleanliness involving feeding. We recommend you don’t feed wheat-based pellets or sticks, they dissolve rapidly in the tank, fouling water. A good choice is Zoo Med Turtle Sticks Maintenance formula (not Growth formula). You can substitute 1 feeding a week with “red wiggler” worms which don’t foul the water at all and add enrichment and variety to your turtle’s diet. If the turtle is begging or looking hungry on non-feeding days offer Romaine or Green Leaf lettuce (a whole leaf). Remove remaining lettuce after 2 to 3 days so it doesn’t make a mess.
Another useful way to reduce maintenance is to use a feeding bin. This is a bin you fill with water on a feed day, and put the turtle and food into for an hour to two. Make sure to approximate the temperature of your turtle’s tank water. The turtle will eat and probably poop in the bin. Put the turtle back in its tank and discard the bin water. Some turtles don’t get the hang of it right away, but missing a few feed days and only having lettuce in the tank usually trains them quickly. Eventually they will get excited at just a glimpse of the feeding bin, and you’ll need to clean the tank far less frequently.
Mistake #2 – Not Enough Water
Your turtle’s tank needs lots of water for the filter to work properly. Make sure the tank is at least half to three-quarters full. If you rely on piled rocks for a basking area, you may consider switching to a floating platform. This makes room for more water and more space for your turtle to swim. Too many objects means too many things to clean, but too bare means nowhere for your turtle to hide or explore, and there is nothing outside of your filter for the “good bacteria” that keep your water clean to stick to (we will cover this below).
Mistake #3 – Not Enough Filtration
The golden rule for turtle tank filtration is to choose a filter rated for twice or more the capacity of your tank when it is fully filled (not how much water is actually in it). For example, a 40 gallon tank that is three-quarters full of water needs a filter rated for an 80 gallon tank. A filter rated for 100 gallons would be even better. Check out the Cascade 1000 (about $80) or even better the Cascade 1500 (about $140). These are mighty filters available at very competitive prices. Either one of these will keep a tank clean for 3 months to 6 months at a time. If you institute the feeding bin technique you might get a year between water changes.
Filters need to run all the time. Do not shut them off at night or the good bacteria will starve for oxygen and your filter will not work well. The bacterial aspect of your filter is the most important part. Experienced keepers will throw out the activated charcoal/carbon bag that comes with the filter in order to make room for more bio-media, such as ceramic rings or lava rocks. Some of our filters utilize giant 5 gallon buckets of nothing but bio-media and don’t need a complete water change for years.
Mistake #4 – Too Much Cleaning
Yes, you can make your life difficult by cleaning too much! The turtle digestive system is less than high efficiency. Your filter’s primary function is to collect bacteria-ridden poop and run it through the bio-media. This colonizes the bio-media with “good bacteria.” This bacteria turns the poop into nitrite and nitrate which is scrubbed by the rest of the filter. Whenever starting up a new filter it is very important not to over-clean for the first 4 to 6 weeks. No full water changes should occur. If water is getting cloudy or there is a smell, a partial (maximum 50%) change is the most that should occur. If you are trying to keep things “sterile,” your filter will never get up to speed.
When cleaning a filter, NEVER use bleach, soap or any other cleaning chemical. Never use hot water. You should think of filter cleaning as more like rinsing. If there is good flow leaving the filter it does not need cleaning at all. A light touch goes a long way. Even the most expensive filter won’t work properly if over-cleaned.
Mistake #5 – Tank Near Window
Though it may seem counterintuitive, your turtle gains nothing from being placed near a window. Most windows block UVB and most UVA light, which is what your turtle really needs. This means that the light coming through does not help your turtle. It does, however, help algae grow, which will strip important oxygen from the water. It also kills the “good bacteria” that grows naturally in your filter. This means that the water is going to get dirty much faster. Additionally, placing a tank in front of the window in the summer can super heat the water, which can cause the turtle serious and immediate health problems. In the winter, this can cause you to burn out water heaters faster, and cold water will cause your turtle to develop an illness. Your turtle simply needs proper artificial lighting and a water heater. By moving your tank away from the window you can save yourself time and money.